For now, we’re going to highlight the Zebra Babulti and the Green Babulti.
The Zebra Babaulti are absolutely stunning shrimp. They are a wild color form and breed easily in freshwater. They are hardy and are a great alternative to Neocaridina shrimp as they don’t require special attention. They tend to be accepting of a multitude of water parameters including Neocaridina parameters.
The care for Green Babaulti shrimp is similar in care to the Zebra babulti. While these rare Green Babaulti Shrimp may have little to no coloring as juveniles, they color up nicely as they become adults. Don't let the name fool you though. While they can be completely green, most of them also have a Sunkist orange coloring layered over the top of their primarily green bodies. Regardless, they are a great way to add a pop of color to your aquarium!
In conclusion, Babaulti shrimp offer aquarists a fascinating combination of vivid colors, ease of care, and adaptability. Despite their limited research, these shrimp species, particularly the Zebra and Green varieties, stand out for their striking appearances and hardy nature. Whether seeking an alternative to more common species or simply aiming to add a vibrant touch to the aquarium, Babaulti shrimp prove to be an excellent choice.
NorthFin stands out for its quality and results. It contains spirulina algae, rich in raw proteins, boosting immune functions. The inclusion of Calcium monorillonite clay provides essential minerals. The use of High Omega-3 Herring Meal elevates its grade.
NorthFin Foods provides a range catering to different dietary needs, ensuring the well-being and vibrancy of your aquatic community. 🦐
]]>Anubias plants are renowned among aquarium enthusiasts for their hardiness, ease of care, and aesthetic appeal. Originating from Africa, these plants belong to the Araceae family and are popular choices for both beginner and experienced aquarists alike. Among the various species of Anubias available, five stand out for their unique characteristics and suitability for aquarium environments. Let's delve into the top five types of Anubias plants, each offering distinct qualities that can enhance the beauty of your aquatic habitat.
Anubias Nana Petite is a miniature variant of the classic Anubias Nana, making it an excellent choice for smaller aquariums or as a foreground plant in larger setups. Its compact size and slow growth rate make it ideal for nano tanks or for creating intricate aquascapes. Despite its diminutive stature, Anubias Nana Petite maintains the robustness and resilience characteristic of Anubias species, thriving under low to moderate lighting and requiring minimal maintenance.
Anubias Nana is perhaps one of the most recognized and widely cultivated Anubias species in the aquarium hobby. Its lush, dark green leaves and sturdy rhizomes make it a versatile plant suitable for various aquascaping styles. Anubias Nana is well-suited for both foreground and midground placements, adding texture and depth to aquarium layouts. This species can tolerate a wide range of water parameters and is compatible with a variety of tank mates, making it an ideal choice for beginners and seasoned aquarists alike.
Anubias Nana Sp. Golden is a striking variant of Anubias Nana, distinguished by its vibrant golden-yellow leaves. This cultivar adds a splash of color to aquariums and contrasts beautifully with other greenery. Like its green counterpart, Anubias Nana Sp. Golden is undemanding in terms of care requirements and can thrive under low light conditions. Its eye-catching foliage makes it a focal point in any aquascape, whether used as a standalone specimen or incorporated into a larger layout.
Anubias Barteri is a larger species of Anubias characterized by its broad, lanceolate leaves and robust growth habit. This plant is well-suited for background placement or as a centerpiece in aquascapes, where its sizable leaves create a sense of scale and presence. Anubias Barteri is adaptable to various water conditions and can thrive in both aquariums and paludariums. Its enduring popularity among aquarists is a testament to its durability and aesthetic appeal.
Anubias Coffeefolia is named for its distinctive coffee-colored leaves, which boast a rich, chocolate hue. This unique coloration sets it apart from other Anubias species and adds visual interest to aquariums. Anubias Coffeefolia is an excellent choice for aquarists seeking to add a touch of elegance to their aquatic displays. Like other Anubias varieties, it is undemanding in terms of care and can thrive in a wide range of environmental conditions.
In conclusion, the top five types of Anubias plants offer aquarists a diverse array of options to suit their preferences and aquarium setups. Whether you're looking for compact foreground plants, vibrant accents, or stately specimens, there's an Anubias species to fit the bill. With their resilience, versatility, and aesthetic appeal, Anubias plants continue to be prized additions to freshwater aquariums around the world.
]]>In the world of aquarium keeping, maintaining a healthy and balanced ecosystem is crucial. Algae growth is a common issue that many aquarists face, often leading to cloudy water and unsightly green patches. However, there's a group of tiny yet mighty helpers that can tackle this problem efficiently: nano fish. In this blog post, we'll focus on four species renowned for their algae-eating prowess: Panda Garra, Garra Rufa, Otocinclus Catfish, and Siamese Algae Eater.
Otocinclus Catfish (Otocinclus sp.):
Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus crossocheilus):
Conclusion: Adding algae-eating nano fish like Panda Garra, Garra Rufa, Otocinclus Catfish, and Siamese Algae Eater to your aquarium can significantly contribute to maintaining a clean and healthy aquatic environment. However, it's essential to ensure proper tank conditions and compatibility with other fish species to promote their well-being. With these tiny helpers on your side, you can enjoy a beautifully balanced aquarium free from the scourge of algae. For additional help with your algae clean up endeavors, we recommend our Algae Clean Up Crew which includes Amano Shrimp, Nerite Snails and your choice of these four algae eating fish! With this crew, your algae problem doesn't stand a chance!
]]>Are you looking to add a burst of color to your aquarium? Meet the Red Rili Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi var. "Red Rili") – a captivating and vibrant species that can transform your aquatic world. In this blog post, we'll dive into the fascinating world of Red Rili Shrimp, exploring their unique characteristics, care requirements, and the joy they bring to aquarium enthusiasts.
Appearance and Distinctive Features:
Red Rili Shrimp are a striking variation of the popular Neocaridina species. What sets them apart is their eye-catching coloration – a brilliant red hue. The unique feature that gives them their name is the distinct "rili" pattern, a clear or white stripe running down their backs or through their midsection, that was produced as a color morph of the cherry shrimp. It was developed around 2010 and has since been stabilized
Tank Setup and Water Parameters:
Creating an optimal environment for Red Rili Shrimp involves paying attention to a few key factors. They thrive in aquariums with stable water parameters, ideally maintaining a temperature range of 68°F to 72°F and a pH level between 7.0 to 7.6. A well-filtered tank with ample hiding places and live plants will provide the perfect habitat for these colorful crustaceans.
Diet and Feeding Habits:
Red Rili Shrimp are not demanding eaters, making them a great choice for beginners. They enjoy a varied diet that includes NorthFin Veggie, Community food, Bug pro and Kelp Wafters. Adding a supplement of biofilm or algae in the tank ensures they have a continuous source of natural food.
Breeding and Reproduction:
One of the fascinating aspects of Red Rili Shrimp is their prolific breeding behavior. Given the right conditions, these shrimp reproduce readily, adding even more pops of red to your aquarium. Ensure a well-established tank with proper hiding spots for the newborns to thrive.
Compatibility and Tank Mates:
Red Rili Shrimp are generally peaceful and can coexist with other non-aggressive tank mates. However, it's advisable to avoid housing them with larger or more aggressive species that might pose a threat to these small and delicate creatures. Compatible tank mates include other Neocaridina shrimp, nano fish like micro rasboras, pygmy cories, some plecos, or snails.
Red Rili Shrimp brings a splash of color and vibrancy to any aquarium. Their distinct appearance, ease of care, and prolific breeding habits make them a favorite among shrimp enthusiasts. Consider welcoming these lively crustaceans into your aquatic haven and watch as your tank comes alive with the brilliance of Red Rili Shrimp.
Learn more about Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)
Java Moss, a classic favorite among aquarists, is renowned for its hardiness and versatility in aquariums. This moss species attaches to various surfaces, including substrate, rocks, and driftwood, forming dense, lush carpets over time. Java Moss requires low to moderate lighting and thrives in a wide range of water parameters, making it an excellent choice for beginners and experienced hobbyists alike. Its ability to absorb excess nutrients and provide shelter for fry and small fish makes it a valuable addition to any planted aquarium.
Learn more about Monte Carlo (Micranthemum tweediei)
Monte Carlo is revered for its vibrant green foliage and compact growth habit, making it a sought-after carpeting plant among aquascapers. With its small, round leaves and creeping stems, Monte Carlo forms dense carpets that add depth and dimension to the aquarium landscape. This plant flourishes in moderate to high lighting conditions and, while not required, it can benefit from CO2 supplementation and nutrient-rich substrates. Regular pruning and grooming help to maintain its carpet-like appearance, ensuring a visually striking aquascape that enchants observers.
Learn more about Hydrocotyle Japan (Hydrocotyle tripartita)
Hydrocotyle Japan, also known as Hydrocotyle tripartita, is a captivating foreground plant that adds a touch of elegance to any aquascape. With its distinctive round leaves and intricate branching patterns, this plant forms dense mats across the substrate, creating a lush carpet effect. Hydrocotyle Japan thrives in moderate to high lighting conditions and benefits from CO2 supplementation, making it an excellent choice for aquarists seeking to achieve a vibrant carpeted layout in their aquariums. Regular trimming is essential to maintain its compact growth and prevent overgrowth, ensuring a visually appealing aquascape.
Learn more about Micro Sword (Lilaeopsis brasiliensis)
Micro Sword, characterized by its slender blade-like leaves, is a popular choice for foreground coverage in planted aquariums. This hardy plant forms dense carpets under optimal conditions, providing shelter for small fish and invertebrates while oxygenating the water. Micro Sword thrives in moderate lighting and nutrient-rich substrates, making it suitable for both beginner and experienced aquarists alike. Regular pruning and maintenance help to promote healthy growth and prevent the spread of algae, ensuring a picturesque aquascape that catches the eye.
Learn more about Pearl Weed (Hemianthus micranthemoides)
Pearl Weed, also known as Baby Tears, is prized for its delicate, pearl-like leaves and rapid growth rate, making it an ideal choice for creating lush carpeting in aquariums. This versatile plant thrives in a wide range of conditions, from low to high light intensities and varying temperatures. Pearl Weed spreads horizontally across the substrate through runners, forming dense mats that provide refuge for small aquatic creatures. Regular trimming and maintenance are necessary to control its growth and prevent it from overshadowing other plants in the aquarium.
Incorporating carpeting plants into your planted aquarium not only enhances its aesthetic appeal but also contributes to the overall health and well-being of its inhabitants. Whether you're a novice aquarist or a seasoned enthusiast, the beauty and functionality of carpeting plants such as Hydrocotyle Japan, Micro Sword, Pearl Weed, Monte Carlo, and Java Moss can elevate your aquascape to new heights. By selecting the right plants and providing them with the necessary care and maintenance, you can create a breathtaking aquascape!
]]>Blue Bolts, however, are genetically Taiwan bees. A regular-grade blue bolt generally entails that the head of the shrimp will be mostly blue, with the remainder of the body and tail being mostly white with some light blue coloration. Our high-grade blue bolts, which we call “Deep Blue” are a deep blue color with minimal white coloration. It is great to be aware of the fact that all Taiwan Bee shrimp can be kept in the same tank without the risk of hybridizing. All Taiwan Bee shrimp share similar genetic lines so they will produce shrimp that look similar to their parents. Red King Kongs, Red Pandas, Black King King Kongs, Black Pandas, and Blue Bolts can all be kept in the same aquarium.
In conclusion, both blue shrimp stand out as captivating additions to aquariums, boasting stunning blue hues that provide a vibrant and eye-catching contrast. Their unique coloring adds aesthetic appeal to any aquatic environment, making them an attractive choice for hobbyists and aquarists seeking a visually striking and engaging species.
The green neon tetra is a captivating addition to aquariums with its vibrant greenish hue. These small, schooling fish create a lively and dynamic aquatic environment. Known for their peaceful nature, green neon tetras are ideal for community tanks and contribute to a harmonious underwater landscape.
Learn More About Paracheirodon axelrodi
Cardinal tetras are prized for their stunning colors, featuring a brilliant combination of deep blue and vivid red. Their striking appearance makes them a popular choice among aquarium enthusiasts. Cardinal tetras are social creatures, often found schooling together, and their vibrant colors enhance the visual appeal of any aquarium setting.
Learn More About Hyphessobrycon amandae
Ember tetras bring a fiery touch to aquariums with their vibrant orange and red tones, resembling glowing embers. Despite their small size, ember tetras make a bold statement, adding warmth and energy to freshwater tanks. These active and sociable fish thrive in well-planted aquariums, creating a visually pleasing and dynamic aquatic landscape.
Learn More About Paracheirodon innesi
Neon tetras are renowned for their iconic iridescent blue and red colors. These popular aquarium fish are known for their peaceful temperament and can be kept in schools for a visually stunning effect. Neon tetras contribute to the overall aesthetics of freshwater aquariums and are favored by both novice and experienced fish keepers.
Learn More About Hemigrammus rhodostomus
Rummynose tetras stand out with their distinctive red snouts, creating a captivating contrast against their silver bodies. These active and shoaling fish are known for their tight-knit groups and unique appearance. Rummynose tetras add a touch of charm and character to aquariums, making them an appealing choice for hobbyists seeking visually striking and engaging aquatic companions.
What We Feed Our Tetras:
Our Tank Parameters
Caring for tetras in your aquarium involves providing an environment that mimics their natural habitat, ensuring their well-being and vibrant colors. Since tetras are schooling fish, keep them in groups of at least six to promote their social behavior and reduce stress. Regular water changes and filtration are crucial for maintaining water quality, as tetras can be sensitive to changes in their environment. Creating hiding spots with plants and decorations will provide security for these active fish. With proper care and attention to their specific needs, tetras can live happily and display their stunning colors in your aquarium for years to come.
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Celestial Pearl Danio | Danio margaritatus
Celestial Pearl Danios, scientifically known as Danio margaritatus or Galaxy Rasboras, are enchanting and petite freshwater fish celebrated for their celestial beauty. These danios boast iridescent blue and orange hues, resembling a constellation of stars on their small bodies. Typically reaching around 0.8 to 1 inch in size, they are perfect for small aquarium setups. Celestial Pearl Danios are characterized by their peaceful and active nature, often seen darting and exploring the upper levels of the aquarium. They are well-suited for community tanks and bring a captivating visual element to any aquatic setting.
Pygmy Corydoras | Corydoras pygmaeus
Pygmy Corydoras, scientifically known as Corydoras pygmaeus, are charming miniature catfish that add vibrancy and activity to freshwater aquariums. These tiny fish typically grow to around 1 inch in length and showcase a delightful appearance with a streamlined body and a distinctively marked head. Pygmy Corydoras are known for their playful and sociable behavior, often seen in small groups swimming near the bottom of the tank. They are excellent community fish, adding liveliness to peaceful aquariums. These catfish thrive in groups, so keeping them in small schools is recommended.
Green Kubotai Rasbora | Microdevario kubotai
The Green Kubotai Rasbora, Microdevario kubotai, are a bright green color uncommonly seen in freshwater fish. In aquariums with dark substrate and lots of places to hide these fish color up greatly. With a size of around 0.8 to 1 inch, they are petite and well-suited for nano aquariums. Microdevario kubotai are known for their energetic and shoaling behavior, often forming tight groups that add a dynamic and lively aspect to the aquarium. It is best to keep these fish in groups of 5 or more to ensure they can school together in a comfortable manner.
Otocinclus Catfish | Otocinclus Vestitus
Otocinclus catfish, commonly known as "otos" in the aquarium hobby, are small and fascinating freshwater fish renowned for their algae-eating capabilities. These petite catfish typically reach a size of 1 to 2 inches and feature a distinctive appearance with a sucker-like mouth and an elongated body covered in bony plates. Otocinclus are known for their peaceful and social behavior, often forming schools in aquariums. They are excellent at keeping aquariums clean by consuming algae, making them a valuable addition to community tanks. To care for Otocinclus catfish, it's crucial to provide a well-established aquarium with plenty of hiding spots and live plants.
Kuhli loaches, also known as Pangio kuhlii, are intriguing and slender freshwater fish that bring a unique charm to aquariums. These eel-like loaches typically have an elongated body with vertical brown and yellow stripes, providing effective camouflage in their natural habitat. Kuhli loaches are nocturnal and often hide during the day, emerging during the evening hours to explore and scavenge for food. Their shy and peaceful nature makes them excellent community tank residents.
In conclusion, shrimp-friendly nano fish contribute to the charm and balance of a well-planted aquarium. Whether it's the playful Pygmy Corydoras, the vibrant Green Kubotai Rasboras, or the celestial beauty of Celestial Pearl Danios, these small freshwater fish not only coexist harmoniously with shrimp but also add visual appeal and liveliness to nano setups. Their petite size makes them ideal for smaller aquariums, and their peaceful nature allows for a thriving community tank. Providing a carefully curated environment with suitable hiding spots, balanced nutrition, and stable water conditions ensures the health and happiness of both shrimp and their aquatic companions, creating a captivating and harmonious underwater ecosystem.
]]>Small in stature but big on personality, dwarf crayfish are making a splash as nano aquarium candidates. These mini decapod crustaceans come in an array of bright colors while exhibiting complex behaviors without demanding intense care. Let’s spotlight a few top contenders taking over the aquatic hobby:
1. Dwarf Orange Mexican Crayfish
Cambarellus patzcuarensis 'orange' (CPO)
The most prolific and easiest to find, dwarf orange Mexicans reach just over 2 inches and live for 2-3 years. Their bright reddish-orange hue gives great contrast against planted tanks. Peaceful and social, they happily coexist with small fish and live plants.
2. Blue Mini Mexican Crayfish
Cambarellus patzcuarensis "Blue"
Very similar to dwarf oranges, “blue” variants display rare sky blue claws and dark blue on their bodies. Matures remain under 2 inches long. Their unique color in the crayfish world and comparable ease of care has collectors going crazy.
3. Blue Brazos Dwarf Crayfish
Hailing from Texas, Brazos dwarfs sometimes called “liger” crayfish for their striping. These crawling blue gems also stay petite under 2 inches with striking sapphire claws. While still relatively new to the trade, their hardiness and looks attract attention.
4. Swamp Dwarf Crayfish
Also know as the Cambarellus puer, the Swamp Dwarf Crayfish is a rusty reddish-brown “puer” cray. Maxing around 2 inches, males especially impress with lengthy front claws. They peacefully coexist in community nano tanks much like their Mexican cousins.
Tank Parameters
Any of these mini marvels make excellent starter crayfish! Their appeal continues growing due to small footprints, striking shades, and display tank friendliness for interacting without major risk. Dwarf crayfish let aquarists safely enjoy these captivating crustaceans.
DISCLAIMER: Some states prohibit the import of crayfish. It is the consumer's responsibility to be aware of their state's laws.
]]>That's why we're here to help you with the basics.
In this blog post, we'll introduce you to six easy-to-maintain, low-light aquatic plants that are guaranteed to spruce up your aquarium without adding to your to-do list.
Scientific Name: Anubias barteri var. nana petite
Lighting Requirements: Low
The Anubias Nana Petite or Anubias barteri var. nana petite, is a small and compact variant of the Anubias family, revered for its hardiness and ease of care. Its dark green, leathery leaves make it an excellent choice for low-light aquariums. This plant thrives when attached to driftwood or rocks, adding a touch of lush greenery to the aquascape while providing hiding spots for small fish or fry.
Scientific Name: Leptochilus Pteropus (also called Microsorum Pteropus)
Lighting Requirements: Low to medium
The Java Fern, or the Leptochilus pteropus thrives in various water conditions, it can grow both submerged and emerged, making it adaptable to different aquarium setups. They’re hardy and can grow in low-light environments. It propagates easily by cutting the rhizome, horizontal shoots, or plantlets growing from the underside of the leaves. It received its name from the Indonesian island of Java due to its presence in that region.
Scientific Name: Nymphoides Aquatica
Lighting requirements: Low
The Banana Plant, or Nymphoides aquatica, is unique as it resembles a bushel of bananas in its appearance with tubers that store its nutrients and anchor the plant. A pro tip with the banana plant is not to bury it deep in the substrate, instead set it on top and allow it to root itself.
Scientific Name: Echinodorus grisebachii
Lighting Requirements: Low
The Amazon Sword, or Echinodorus, is a striking and robust plant with long, lance-shaped leaves that add a dramatic touch to freshwater aquariums. Known for its vigorous growth, it requires moderate to high lighting and nutrient-rich substrate for optimal development. This plant serves as an excellent background or centerpiece, contributing to a lush, natural-looking aquatic habitat.
Scientific Name: Nymphaea Stellata
Lighting Requirements: Moderate
The Dwarf Lily is a compact aquatic plant characterized by its striking red or green leaves that grow from a bulb. With proper care, it produces lovely lily pads on the water's surface, adding surface coverage and shelter for aquatic inhabitants. It thrives in moderate to high lighting conditions and can become a visually appealing focal point in smaller aquariums.
Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii , sp. Red.
Lighting Requirements: Low to moderate
The Red Wendtii, a variation of the Cryptocoryne family, is prized for its vibrant reddish-brown leaves. Adaptable to various water conditions, it showcases intense coloration when provided with moderate lighting and nutrient-rich substrate. This plant is versatile, suitable for midground or background placement, and adds depth and color contrast to aquascapes.
]]>As you can already guess, dogs are the most popular domestic pet, closely followed by cats. But pet ownership isn't all smooth sailing; it's a significant investment and long-term commitment.
The good news is that there is another more affordable and less time-consuming pet to own. Pet shrimp are gaining immense popularity across the globe. They're easy to take care of and are a great way to teach kids about their unique ecosystem.
Are you looking to add these overlooked critters to your family?
Learn everything you need to know about taking care of your underwater pets in this guide.
Many people opt for fish over shrimp, but these tiny sea creatures are fascinating. Shrimp are shellfish that belong to the crustacean family. They typically live within marine waters and are often caught for food and, more recently, as pets.
Shrimp are small and range from a fraction of an inch to more than 8 inches. They have slender bodies that have hard casings. These casings, or 'exoskeletons,' shield shrimp from hungry predators and protect their vital organs.
As shrimp grow, they shed their casing and grow a new one. This process is known as 'molting' and leaves shrimp vulnerable to attacks.
Shrimp are a vital part of the ecosystem as they are an important food source for larger animals such as fish and whales. Shrimp also play a role as 'cleaners' that help eliminate dead decaying matter such as dead crabs, clams, snails, and fish. In fact, a large portion of their diet is made up of dead tissue and parasites.
As pets, shrimp eat algae (a lot of it) without harming plants. Because they have a big appetite, this dramatically reduces the need for filtration and algae control.
Shrimp are capable of surviving in various environments and are constantly adapting to suit harsh conditions. Most shrimp species live in saltwater, including the Gulf of Mexico and the South Atlantic Ocean. As the name suggests, freshwater shrimp live in landlocked freshwater areas more shallow than in the deep sea.
Freshwater shrimp tend to be larger and are typically not edible – hence why they make great pets.
While you can keep saltwater shrimp as pets, freshwater shrimp tend to be more robust and less expensive. If something happens to the water chemistry in your aquarium environment, freshwater shrimp are more forgiving. At the same time, a small mistake is more likely to kill saltwater shrimp as they are susceptible to salinity disruptions.
Freshwater shrimp can live between two to three years, depending on the species and tank conditions. In the right conditions, they can reach up to eight years. Freshwater shrimp also come in various colors that range from red, green, and yellow to blue, black, and brown.
Some of the benefits of owning shrimp as pets are:
Most freshwater shrimp are easy to keep and can improve the water quality of your tank. They are an exciting addition to your tank and serve a vital cleaning role.
There are close to 600 varieties of freshwater shrimp to choose from. Although there are many different shapes, sizes, and colors available, some are better suited to aquarium life than others. The three most commonly kept groups of freshwater shrimp are:
Although less popular, other types include Atyopsis, Atya, and Macrobrachium.
Neocaridina and Cardinia are the two most popular types of freshwater shrimp. While they look similar, they have different needs, making it essential to know which type of shrimp you are looking after.
Neocaridina is the easier type of shrimp to start with and is ideal for beginners. They are hardy and can typically survive in a broader range of conditions. On the other hand, Cardinia requires softer water, which is generally more challenging to maintain.
The Neocaridina genus includes dwarf shrimp species such as Red Cherry Shrimp and Snowball Shrimp. Many first-timers choose these species' as they are easy to care for and breed.
The Cardinia genus includes species such as Sulawesi Shrimp and Blue Tiger Shrimp. Again, these species are better suited for more experienced shrimp keepers.
Now, it's time to look at the different types of freshwater shrimp for some shrimpspiration for your tank. We'll also discuss important care information you need to know.
Amano Shrimp, also known as Algae Eating Shrimp, Yamato Shrimp,
and Japanse Shrimp, are resilient and active creatures. They are easy to care for and have big appetites for algae.
Amano Shrimp are non-aggressive dwarf shrimp and are not well-suited to inhabiting an environment with larger species. Avoid Cichlids, Large Plecos, and Gourami. They can inhabit the same environment as Cherry Shrimp, Bristlenose Pleco, and Neon Tetras.
Care facts:
Red Cherry Shrimp are tiny, ornamental freshwater shrimp. They are the most popular shrimp in the hobby. Cherry Shrimp are smaller, only reaching about 1.6 inches long.
Suitable for beginners and experienced aquarists, Red Cherry Shrimp are one of the hardiest and easiest shrimp to keep. They will add color to your tank and are known for their algae-eating capabilities.
Care facts:
Crystal Red Shrimp is a popular species of dwarf shrimp and are appreciated for its bright red and white coloration. They make an excellent pet for any shrimp keeper – beginner or expert.
However, they are fragile when it comes to water quality. Perform water tests frequently to ensure the water values are where they're supposed to be.
Care facts:
Blue Bolt Shrimp is a type of Tawain Bee Shrimp variety. They have a brilliant blue coloration that varies in translucency. Looks aren't the only thing Blue Bolt Shrimp have; they are also fantastic cleaners and will keep your tank looking sharp.
They have similar requirements to Crystal Red Shrimp and require a specific range of water parameters to keep healthy. While Blue Bolt Shrimp can coexist with other Neocaridina, you may find it harder to create a happy balance.
Care facts:
As the name suggests, Chocolate Shrimp produce a rich chocolatey colored shell. They make for an eye-catching and functional addition to your freshwater tank.
Chocolate Shrimp are hardy and will tolerate soft or hard water. They also require minimal feeding in a tank with an abundance of algae, biofilm or decaying plant matter.
Care facts:
Vampire Shrimp is a filter feeder that spends a significant portion of its day hiding, especially during daylight hours. Make sure you have plenty of cover with plants, caves, and a hidey-hole.
This type of shrimp requires a larger tank to stay well-fed and happy. A larger tank is also important to accommodate their size – up to six inches. Because they are filter feeders, it's wise to have a strong filter that can blow particles around the tank for the shrimp to catch.
Care facts:
As the name suggests, Ghost Shrimp are translucent in color and grow up to 1.5 inches long. Their unique physical appearance makes it easy to see what the shrimp have eaten that day, adding to the quirkiness of the species.
While they're not known for their longevity, Ghost Shrimp are shy, making them the ideal tank companion for other peaceful species. It's good to keep Ghost Shrimp away from predatory fish to avoid injury as the species regularly molt.
Care facts:
With a pretty name like Singapore Flower Shrimp, it's no wonder they're a beautiful and popular species among freshwater aquarium hobbyists. Singapore Flower Shrimp require at least 20 gallons of freshwater that provide plenty of hiding places and decaying plant matter for the shrimp to feed on.
It's important to note that this type of shrimp species is challenging to breed as they require brackish water to raise the newly hatched larvae. However, they are straightforward to care for and great for beginners and experts alike.
Care facts:
As far as feeding freshwater shrimp goes, they have relatively few demands. As omnivores, freshwater shrimp eat both meat and vegetarian, allowing them to enjoy many different types of food.
Their preferred food is biofilm, a surface scum that forms on the water surface of aquariums. While biofilm is an excellent nutritional substance, it will not be enough to sustain an entire population as your tank grows.
At this point, you will need to start providing food for your shrimp. Shrimp feed on decaying plants, deceased animals, and algae as they grow. As their diet consists of protein and vegetable matter, it's essential to find a variety of foods that contains these essential nutrients and minerals.
Freshwater shrimp will happily eat the following:
At Flip Aquatics, we stock a range of quality shrimp food products, from Shrimp King Snow Pops to Shrimp Lollies. You can also give your shrimp fresh vegetables such as spinach, kale, zucchini, and sweet potato.
You will need to peel these veggies and boil them before freezing them. You can offer veggies several times a week, which you can supplement with their algae diet.
Finally, there are a few things to remember when feeding your freshwater shrimp:
While it is tempting to buy the 'cheap stuff,' avoid it. Cheap doesn't always mean quality. Cheap food can break down too quickly in the water and end up in the water column and not in your shrimp's stomach.
Breeding shrimp can be highly profitable if well executed. Even if you're breeding as a hobby, it's still essential to understand how to breed freshwater shrimp properly.
Crossbreeding is a common practice but is not recommended for beginners. Shrimp aren't likely to adopt the best traits from different breeds as other animals. It may lead to inferior shrimp with weakened traits.
Red Cherry Shrimp are popular to breed given their superior characteristics and popularity among freshwater shrimp hobbyists. It's pretty simple to breed Red Cherry Shrimp as long as you follow these steps:
Inducing breeding is achieved by keeping the water levels stable. Your shrimp will also need a regular food source with higher protein foods.
Ensure there are no predators in the tank once the baby shrimp are born. Most predators are more than happy to eat a newborn shrimp.
If you're new to breeding, you may encounter a few hurdles. Common reasons your shrimp are not breeding include:
One way to boost your hobby breeding is by implementing live aquatic plants in your breeding set-up. Live aquarium plants can benefit shrimp breeding in many ways, including:
Breeding shrimp is a fun (and addictive) hobby that can become profitable when done correctly. Once you become more experienced in shrimp breeding, you can experiment with different species and have fun doing it.
Freshwater shrimp such as Red Cherry Shrimp is a great beginner shrimp that is exceedingly hardy. While it can be tricky to find a suitable tankmate for these tiny shrimp, it is possible, but you need to find the correct balance. The tank conditions and setup play a significant role in the success rate of keeping shrimp with other fish or invertebrates.
Some of the best tankmates for dwarf shrimp include:
Of course, you can add other shrimp to the mix. The most common shrimp tankmates include Amano and Ghost Shrimp. Most shrimp will not fight each other; just be prepared for crossbreeding and ensure your tank is large enough to support the growing population.
The health and well-being of your shrimp come down to one key component: the aquarium setup. Dwarf freshwater shrimp are relatively easy to keep but need the right equipment to make sure they live a happy life. To get started, ensure you have the following to set up a nano shrimp tank:
Let's look at each of the major components and their importance to the needs of your shrimp.
The first step to having pet shrimp is deciding what tank to get. As the saying goes, bigger is always better. Although shrimp can survive in smaller tanks, the water can fluctuate in parameters and temperatures.
Shrimp do not like frequent changes, which may lead to their premature death. Freshwater shrimp also actively breed, so a larger tank is required to support new arrivals.
It is recommended that you don't go any larger than 40 gallons. Instead, opt for 20 to 30 gallons as a starting point. This will be more affordable and easier to set up.
Water test kits are important to make sure that all the parameters in your aquarium are normal. Without one, you cannot estimate the right condition and risk the health of your shrimp. You won't find an experienced shrimp keeper who doesn't use test kits.
There are several parameters you need to keep an eye on. They include:
When you first get started, you need to measure ammonia and nitrite religiously. As your tank matures, you will primarily focus on nitrate levels. You will also need to test pH, GH, and KH to ensure they stay stable.
Please note that parameters are not a one-size-fits-all situation. Different shrimp require different parameters. For example, Red Cherry Shrimp can tolerate the following parameters:
These parameters are similar to other dwarf shrimp species. While Red Cherry Shrimp are very hardy, not all shrimp are. Do your research beforehand to ensure you provide a safe environment for your shrimp.
Once you have a shrimp tank, you'll need a filter. Not all filters are created equal – some are better suited to shrimp than others. Choosing the right shrimp filter can be tricky as you need to consider the size of your tank, the type of filter, and your budget.
There are four main types of shrimp filters:
Canister filters are ideal for larger shrimp tanks but are the most expensive. HOB filters are less expensive but not as powerful. Internal filters are suited for tanks that are less than five gallons, while sponge filters are a good choice as they are easy to maintain and prove good filtration.
The primary factor when making your choice is shrimp safety. Shrimps are small and can easily be sucked into filters. As long as your filter is shrimp-safe, you're good to go.
When it comes to aquariums, the substrate refers to the material used to cover the bottom of a tank. It affects water chemistry, filtration, and the well-being of your shrimp. As a result, choosing a suitable substrate is inherently important.
There are several choices of aquarium substrate. They include:
Many recommend using inert substrates, including gravel, sand, and baked clay products. Inert substrates last forever and break down slowly, if at all. They are also the easiest aquarium substrates to manage and do not change the chemistry of your water.
At the end of the day, shrimp can be successfully kept in almost all types of substrates. What matters most is stability. Shrimps don't like sudden changes; just ensure you keep the water close to the desired parameters.
Pet shrimp are a fun and popular pet experience for children and hobbyists looking to expand their hobby into the shrimp and nano fish world.
When you bring any animal into your home, it deserves your best efforts. The same goes for pet shrimp. Ensuring you have a suitable environment for your shrimp to thrive in is crucial to the success of your efforts.
At Flip Aquatics, we are passionate about shrimp and providing healthy animals to our customers. Whether you're a complete beginner or looking to expand your hobby, you can find everything you need here. From shrimp and nano fish to live aquatic plants and freshwater snails, we cater to everyone's aquarium needs.
Browse our range of shrimp and start your new underwater adventure today!
]]>The neon tetra is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish due to its bright colors and peaceful personality. These fish are easy to care for and can be housed in a community tank with other peaceful fish. These tetras have an iridescent blue coloration with a black vertical stripe running down the side of their body. Neon tetras have been selectively bred over many generations to produce a variety of colors and patterns. The most common varieties are gold neon, green neon, and black neon.
Neon tetras are native to South America and grow to about 1 to 1.5 inches long. They inhabit slow-flowing streams and rivers in their native habitat but can thrive in blackwater as well. Neon tetras can live for up to 5 years if cared for properly.
Due to their vibrant colors, they make an excellent addition to any freshwater aquarium. They are omnivorous and will eat both plant matter and meaty foods such as flake food or Daphnia.
Neon tetras are found in the Amazon River basin of South America. The species is native to the countries of Brazil, Peru, Colombia, and Venezuela. They thrive in slow-moving waters such as small streams or ponds. Neon tetras do not tolerate cold water temperatures or high levels of nitrates. They require a pH level between 6 and 7 with a temperature between 70 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit.
Neon tetras are most commonly found in freshwater aquariums due to their beautiful coloring and peaceful nature. The fish are also popular among aquarists because they can live together with other species in a community tank without any competition for food or territory.
Neon tetras can reach an adult length of about 2 inches (50 millimeters) but most stay between 1 inch (25 millimeters) and 1.5 inches (40 millimeters).
The majority of neon tetras come from the Far East and Eastern Europe, where they are commonly cultivated. There are currently several different variations of specimens that have been produced in captivity. Some examples include the long-finned neon tetra (which is extremely unusual), the golden neon tetra (which seems to be semi-albino), and the diamond neon tetra (whose upper body is covered in metallic scales).
Neon tetras prefer to dwell in water with a lot of flora and roots. Providing an environment with several low-light hiding spots is essential for this specie to thrive.
Plants like Hornwort and Java Moss can be used to decorate your neon tank. As a result of these plants, neon-tetra habitats are shaded and private, just what these fish need. Using driftwood as a hiding spot for the fish is also an option.
Choosing the right substrate for neon tetras isn't nearly as crucial as for bottom-dwelling fish, such as cichlids and goldfish. However, a dark substrate, such as black sand, will make your neon tetra feel at home and will show off the fish's wonderful neon colors.
The neon tetra's natural environment has low light levels, which may be simulated by darkening three sides of the aquarium's glass paneling.
Neon Tetras are generally hardy fish that can be kept in community tanks with smaller non-aggressive species.
Neon tetras are generally a long-lived species. While some aquarists have reported they live up to 10 years, the average lifespan of neon tetras is closer to 5-8 years. This is just an average, however; some fish can live longer than that, and others die after only a few months.
Neon tetras are a little bit difficult to breed and it can be tricky to raise the fry successfully due to their small size which makes them vulnerable to predation from larger tank mates or other fish species. The fry grows very quickly so it is important that they have enough food available at all times or else they may starve before they have time to develop properly.
The best way to get the Neon Tetra to spawn is by keeping them in a small tank that can be placed in a dark place (such as a closet). The water temperature should be around 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and the pH level should be around 6.5. The tank should have plenty of hiding spots for the male and female to feel safe when they are not mating, but there should also be open space for them to swim around in so that they can find each other more easily.
Before placing the breeding couple in the breeding tank, feed them live meals to prepare them. Start with absolutely no illumination in the tank when you put the breeding couple in there for the first time. To encourage spawning, gradually raise the lighting level the next day. At this time of day, females are most likely to mate. During spawning, the male will clasp the female and then release more than 100 eggs. Transparent and slightly sticky, the eggs will adhere to plants. As soon as the eggs are deposited, the breeding couple should be separated since they can devour the eggs very rapidly.
The eggs and fry are both vulnerable to high levels of light. In around 24 hours, the eggs will hatch, releasing small fry that will feed on their egg sacks for a few days. Hatch rates are low, therefore only about a third of the eggs will hatch into fry. When the fry is three to four days old, they will be able to swim on their own, and they will need to be given very small meals. Soon, they'll be big enough to eat fresh brine shrimp. The fry will begin to show its beautiful and amazing hues after the first month.
Neon Tetras are omnivores, meaning they eat both plant material and animal matter. In the wild, they feed on algae and other types of plant matter that grow on rocks and other submerged surfaces. They will also consume insect larvae and any invertebrates that they can catch in their mouths. They will also eat some types of live foods such as brine shrimp, blood worms, daphnia, and tubifex worms.
You should feed your neon tetras a variety of animal and plant-based meals to recreate their natural habitat diet.
A good diet for neon tetras consists mainly of flake food with some frozen or freeze-dried blood worms added to it once or twice per week. You should also include high-quality tropical fish flakes as part of their diet since this will help promote their growth rate and overall health.
Put your primary emphasis on Daphnia as a live food as well as NorthFin foods such as Flake, Veggie, and Community formula.
Take care to include enough plant items in the diets of neon tetras. The fish can receive algae wafers as well as fruits and vegetables as often as three times a week.
Neon tetras need to be fed twice a day for the first six months of their lives. To maintain good water quality, feed the tetras for two minutes, then discard any uneaten food. Neon tetras can become ill if they are overfed, so keep to a feeding plan and don't overfeed your fish.
Neon tetras come in many different varieties including black neon tetras, blue neon tetras, red neon tetras, green neon tetras, and so on. Each variety has its unique coloration which makes them all appealing to aquarists who want something different than just another standard neon tetra type fish in their tank!
The neon tetra has a streamlined body. Its body color is blue with black vertical stripes. Some species have red accents on the anal fin, but these are not as common as the blue or black varieties. The male has a longer dorsal fin than the female and he also has more vibrant colors than his female counterpart.
In addition to the red, blue, and silver-bodied neon tetras (the first fish that interested me), there are other varieties of neon tetras to choose from. Typical Neon Tetra species include:
Neon Gold Tetras have a red and silver color combination on their bodies. They have bright blue eyes that jut out. They have a transparent peach-colored body with a silvery sheen. From its nose to its tail, it bears a reddish-orange stripe that runs through its body. The edge of their dorsal and anal fins are both red, whereas their pelvic and anal fins are both white. One inch long is the maximum size.
Gold Neon Tetras are docile and simple to care for, making them a good choice for beginners. Neon tetras, cory catfish, and certain barbs and danios are all good companions for these species. Gold neon tetras should be kept in groups of at least six.
A Gold Neon Tetra may live for up to five years. They consume both plant and animal matter and require a pH range of 5.8 to 7.5. They can be contained in a rectangular tank that has at least 15 gallons of water in it. They can withstand temperatures of up to 28°C. It is not uncommon for Gold Neon Tetra to also consume frozen flakes in addition to the live food that they consume. It's best to feed them regularly but in tiny amounts.
The price per fish is between $2 and $3.
Because of selective breeding, Diamond Head Tetras have a diamond-shaped patch on their back, between their eyes, as well as a dorsal fin that has been formed over time. The vast majority of consumers purchase fish when they are still juveniles, and they typically look for colorful varieties of juvenile fish. This species' shimmering skin develops as the fish matures, giving them an absolutely lovely look when they are fully grown. The body of this tetra species is striped with blue and red horizontal stripes. They can reach a maximum length of 2.5 inches.
The Diamond Head Tetra is an easy-to-care-for fish with a laid-back personality. One should utilize taller plants in the aquarium since they are mid- and top-level swimmers.
Another specie of tetras is referred to merely as black neon. For its adaptability to a wide range of water parameters, this fish is a popular choice for aquariums. It has a one-of-a-kind look. Above its large eyes, there is an orange semi-circle. On either side of the caudal fin, you can see thin horizontal lines. The body has a greyish brown tint with some shimmering yellowish and greenish markings, with one black and one bluish-white line.
A group of six or more Black Neon Tetras is preferable, as is the case with other neon tetra species. They are gregarious creatures, thus they can readily adapt to the community tank with other little fish.
Black neon tetras have a five-year lifespan on average. 24-28°C is the best temperature range for them. They can make it on the food of a good quality flake or pellet variety; nevertheless, it is recommended that they also be fed freeze-dried bloodworms and brine shrimp. Black neon tetras do well in a 20-gallon aquarium. To properly care for Black Neon Tetras, we need to keep the pH below 7.5.
They are about $2-$3 each.
Some people refer to green neon tetras as "blue" or "false neon." True neon tetras and cardinal neon tetras are commonly mistaken for green neon tetras, which are known as false neon tetras. They have a gorgeous greenish-blue tint on the top and slight red color on the bottom (horizontally; similar to neon tetras). In addition, their entire body is a shade of green.
The lifetime of Green Neon Tetras is between two and three years. Even though they are a friendly species, their small size makes them unsuitable as communal fish. These fish should be maintained alone or in a group of at least eight.
Small insects, mosquito larvae, and crustaceans are some of the items that these omnivores eat in their natural habitats. They can only survive in temperatures ranging from 24 to 35 degrees Celsius. The ideal pH range is between 3 and 6.5.
The cardinal tetra is often mistaken for the neon tetra because it has similar coloring on its body; however, there are some key differences between these two fish species:
Color: The most obvious difference between these two species is the coloration. The cardinal tetra has a bright red body with black stripes. In contrast, the neon tetra has a bright blue body with black bands on its sides.
Size: The cardinal tetra is also a slightly larger fish than the neon tetra. Neon tetras usually grow up to 1 inch (2.5 cm) whereas cardinal tetras can grow up to 2 inches (5 cm). However, this may not be noticeable in aquaria because they will grow at different rates depending on the water temperature and other environmental factors.
Behavior: The two species also differ slightly in their behavior. Although both species can be kept together in tanks, this should only be done if there is plenty of space for each fish to swim comfortably without having to compete for food or territory with other members of their species or other types of fish that may be present in your tank (such as catfish).
Neon tetras are beautiful, peaceful, and hardy fish that can be nice additions to many aquariums. They have reasonable lifespans and are active swimmers, hence they are fun to watch. They prefer well-planted tanks with moderate water flow. These fish do best in schools of at least five or more, so if you want more fish, you'll need to keep them in a larger group. Neon tetras also prefer soft water with low pH levels (around 6.0).
If your tank is already set up and you're looking for an interesting little species, neon tetras could be a great choice!
]]>You can also watch our complete guide on how to set up an aquarium for cherry shrimp:
In addition, bright red cherry shrimps are able to revive any aquarium landscape, look beautiful against the background of the surrounding greenery of living plants. It is interesting to watch their constant fuss around. They are a good choice for beginner aquascapers, as they can exist in a wide range of water parameters, they are not as demanding on conditions as other types of shrimp, for example, crystals, in addition, they can be settled even in a small aquarium.
Name | Cherry shrimp |
Scientific name | Neocaridina heteropoda var. red |
Kingdom | Animal |
Type | Arthropod |
Subtype | Crustacean |
Class | Malacostraca |
Family | Atyidae |
Genus | Neocaridina |
Aquarium size | 40L for a colony, but a small amount can live in 10L fish tank |
Difficulty of care | Very easy |
Water parameters | Temperature: 22-29 С or 72-84°F, pH 6.5 - 8.0, kH 3 - 10 |
Life length | 1-2 years |
Body size | Up to 4 cm or 1.5 inch |
Color | Red (also bred orange, yellow, green, and blue morphs) |
Feeding | Omnivore |
Cherry shrimp is a small crustacean, it grows in length up to 2.5-4 cm. The body is translucent, elongated, flattened from the sides, includes two sections - the cephalothorax and abdomen. The legs are located on the anterior abdominal segments. The cephalothorax is protected by a shell covering the gill cavities. The back of the cherry shrimp is usually pinkish-red in color, the claws and legs are covered with small light spots that form a characteristic marble pattern. Mustaches ( antennae ) are either white or pink.
The general body color is often cherry of varying intensity, extremely changeable, pigment cells are able to instantly expand or contract, and the shrimp can instantly turn pale or, conversely, become very bright. This phenomenon depends on a complex of factors - nutrition, environmental parameters, surrounding vegetation, neighbors in the aquarium, and even age. On dark soil, cherry shrimp usually also darken and acquire a richer color, in case of stress (for example, when starting a new aquarium) they can practically discolor. As a result of breeding work, there are many fixed options for the color of cherry shrimp, for example, "red fire" - a bright red color with an opaque shell.
Males and females differ in size, females are usually larger, thicker, and brighter. But the main distinguishing feature is the "saddle" on the back of females - a yellowish spot that represents the ovaries in which eggs develop.
In the process of growth, cherry shrimp, like other crustaceans, molt and shed their old chitinous cover. Sometimes in the aquarium, you can see an empty shell of a shrimp, which does not have to be removed - it will serve as an additional source of food for the cherry tomatoes themselves.
Cherry shrimp shed regularly, and their empty shells remains lying on the bottom or float in the water.
There is no need to be afraid of this process because molting is considered natural because the cherry grows in size and its shell becomes small. The shrimp eats the shed skin to replenish the supply of nutrients in the body. But when molting, shrimps need to hide, as they become completely defenseless - grass or moss is perfect for this.
The success of a molting depends on many factors. One of them is the presence of calcium in the water. Calcium is the basis of chitin for the shell. An element such as iodine is also very important. It is a coenzyme for chitin synthesis. With iodine deficiency, there is a high probability that the shrimp will not be able to molt and will die.
Therefore, if crustaceans live in your aquarium, aquarium drugs with iodine is your best friend.
Determining the gender of cherry shrimp is very easy. The female is larger than the male, has a darker red coloration, as well as a curved lower abdomen. By introducing shrimp after a short amount of time, you will be able to determine gender without problems.
It should be noted that the female cherry has a saddle. It got this name because of the similarity in appearance with the saddle that is used for horses. Most saddles are yellow, but they can also be green.
Saddles are a sign of puberty and also a good indicator that eggs should be expected soon.
Green saddles are believed to arise from a type of wild species genetics. Cherry shrimp eggs are mostly yellow, but can also be green. If the saddle is green, then the eggs will be green and vice versa. There are no differences between green and yellow eggs, i.e. color does not in any way affect the quality of eggs and is not an indicator of health.
Breeding cherry shrimp requires absolutely no effort. Under comfortable conditions and with the required number of individuals of different sexes - from 10 to 20 pieces, they are able to independently reproduce and increase their population.
As the eggs mature in the female, she begins to produce special pheromones that attract the male.
If you prefer video follow we recommend you to watch this video:
Sometimes the chaotic movement of crustaceans around the aquarium indicates readiness for reproduction and procreation.
Fertilized shrimp eggs mature under the tail for 3 weeks. Throughout this period, the female carefully protects them, tries to ensure the flow of oxygen and clean water.
During the maturation of the eggs, the females are very timid, as far as possible they hide from unnecessary glances and attention. At times, due to stress or inexperience, females drop eggs, so do not disturb them once again when the eggs mature. This is the answer to the question of why shrimp sometimes does not breed.
Small crustaceans are born fully formed and independent. They are distinguished from adult shrimps only by their small body size, and the final puberty and color occur in young individuals at 3 months.
Cherry shrimps are absolutely peaceful creatures, they spend most of their time in search of food, "graze" on plants, soil, stones and glass of the aquarium, quickly touching their paws. They must be kept in a group. You can put shrimp in a species aquarium, where they will feel as comfortable as possible. However, these crustaceans get along well with small, calm, and non-aggressive fish, such as guppies, mollies, neons, zebrafish, otocinclus, and microscopic galaxies. But they are still quite vulnerable, so even small fish can harm them, moreover, in the vicinity of active and mobile fish, cherry shrimps experience constant stress, often hide and may turn pale.
It is not recommended to keep them with any, even dwarf, cichlids, and predatory fish. For example, angelfish or siamese fighting fish can quickly destroy all cherries. Helena's predatory snails can also catch and eat the small cherry shrimp. Young individuals are more likely to be eaten in the general aquarium, which is partly compensated by the high fertility of the shrimp, as well as their ability to hide in the ground and plants. Therefore, for the comfortable life of these arthropods, dense vegetation is extremely necessary.
Typically, the life span of cherry shrimp in an aquarium is a year and a half, but they multiply quickly and maintain their population.
Shrimps are extremely unpretentious to living conditions, so they quickly adapt to life in aquariums. Keep in mind that cherry shrimps belong to schooling creatures, therefore they feel best in a rather large flock with "brothers in mind". If the shrimp lives alone, then it will constantly hide among the thickets of aquatic plants, and you will not be able to enjoy its appearance. Aquariums of 20 liters or more are required to keep cherry, the water must meet the following requirements:
Once every 7-10 days, the water must be changed by 15-20%, topping up with excessively soft water is undesirable, since in such conditions the quality of the chitinous shell deteriorates in shrimp. There are several taboos when caring for cherries:
Cherries prefer an aquarium with live vegetation, it is advisable to plant cladophora algae, Ceratopteris thalictroides, Java moss, as well as any plants floating on the water surface.
In artificial conditions, cherry shrimps are able to eat any type of food, they are omnivorous and can even eat the corpses of their family and other neighbors, although by their nature they are peaceful creatures. If the cherry lives with the fish, then you should not feed them separately, since they will eat up everything they see nearby. If cherry shrimps live in a separate tank, then they can be offered:
However, remember - if you feed the shrimp only frozen food, the shade of the shell will become more saturated, and with frequent use of flakes, on the contrary, the shrimp turns pale. If the shrimps feed by the whole flock, therefore, they liked the food, since with the bad food they usually hide. Cherry shrimps are ready to eat 7 days a week and 24 hours a day, however, they need to be fed only once a day, while the batch size is determined based on the fact that all the proposed feed should be eaten in a couple of hours.
We already answered question on how often you should feen you cherry shrimp here:
When overfeeding, food leftovers adversely affect the quality of the water, therefore, the health of the shrimp, which may even die.
To prevent discoloration of shrimp in the aquarium, it is recommended to observe the following rules:
It reflects well on the color of shrimp if they eat aquarium algae. Healthy plants shrimps practically do not eat, but they eat algae that have died after treatment with algicide with pleasure.
Under natural conditions, crustaceans are very vulnerable, the same applies to the aquarium. Their size is small, they completely lack protection, except for the possibility of camouflage, but even after selection in an aquarium, it turns out to be impossible. Therefore, even small fish can eat shrimp or bite off its leg. It is ideal to keep cherries in separate containers without fish.
Even small fish like the apistogramma can peck and eat them. Therefore, neighbors should be chosen with extreme caution. Small, non-aggressive fish such as rasbora, neons, other small characidae, cory catfish, otocinclus, dwarf gourami, and some types of killi fish can become good neighbors for cherry shrimp.
However, baby shrimp are more likely to be eaten by any fish. The abundance of mosses, shelter, grass-ants levels this problem. The larger the fish, the greater the risk of shrimp being food for it.
Aquarium "cherries" often encounter diseases, however, they are not curable, so the affected individuals usually die. The most common cherry problems are:
Moving to a new tank is a big stress for these animals. Therefore, if you have purchased cherries, you need to transfer them into the water of your aquarium very gradually, for at least an hour, first by lowering the bag with them into the aquarium and equalizing the temperature and then gradually adding water from their new home to the bag with their own water.
When transporting a bag with cherries, it is imperative to place a bunch of moss or a branch of a small-leaved plant so that the shrimps can cling to them and do not suffer from shaking.
We already have a video about acclimation of freshwater shrimp:
In the first minutes after the cherries are in the new aquarium, they usually behave very actively, swimming in all layers of water. But this is more of a panic than a housewarming joy. After half an hour, they all hide in the thickets of plants, behind pebbles and under shells, where they will sit for the next 2-3 days.
The fact is that after stress and changes in conditions, shrimps molt and, until their new shell hardens, they try to stay in safe shelters. But very little time will pass, and they will again creep out into the light and begin to swarm busily around the entire aquarium.
If shrimps already live in the aquarium, then, of course, new individuals should be populated into it after quarantine.
However, the difficulty of keeping shrimp in temporary isolation is that they will not be suitable for an ordinary empty sanitary container.
In a quarantine aquarium (from 10 l volume) there must be a substrate, shelters, live plants, it must be quite "old", with established water parameters, with an installed filter and aeration.
In addition, it should be noted that at the end of the quarantine, when the cherries are transferred to a permanent aquarium, they will again be stressed, they will begin to shed, the females will lose their eggs. Even if you transplanted them perfectly, it’s still a new home - for shrimps, this is new water with new indicators.
Therefore, if there are no other types of shrimp in a permanent aquarium, and new specimens are purchased from a reliable seller, quarantine can sometimes be neglected.
If you have a question and want to read more information about aquariums I recommend you check this website!